The Timeless Tale of the Trench Coat: From War Uniform to Wardrobe Staple
The strange history of the trench coat
The trench coat, an emblem of sartorial elegance and practicality, has a history as rich and complex as the fabric it's cut from. This garment's journey from the muddy trenches of World War I to the high streets of fashion capitals around the world is a testament to its enduring appeal.
Alain Delon wearing a trench coat in Paris
The Origins of Weatherproof Chic
The story of the trench coat begins long before the first shots of World War I were fired. In the early 19th century, Charles Macintosh developed rubberized cotton, which, despite its flaws – like trapping sweat and having a peculiar smell – was a significant step towards weatherproof clothing. Innovations continued, and by 1853, John Emary had patented a more breathable fabric, leading to the birth of Aquascutum, a brand synonymous with wet weather gear for the elite.
Meanwhile, Thomas Burberry, inspired by the waterproof smocks of Hampshire shepherds, invented gabardine in 1879 – a breathable, weatherproof twill that would become the foundation of his eponymous brand's outerwear. These early developments set the stage for the trench coat's evolution.
"There's no such thing as bad weather just bad clothing".
- THOMAS BURBERRY
From Battlefield to Fashion Statement
The trench coat as we know it was forged in the crucible of World War I. It was a time of upheaval, where military tactics and attire underwent significant changes. The British military, adapting to the new realities of warfare, needed uniforms that were practical, camouflaged, and could be mass-produced. The trench coat, with its waterproof fabric and functional design, was the answer.
Officers in the trenches needed attire that allowed for quick movement and adaptability. The trench coat, shorter and lighter than the cumbersome greatcoats of the past, provided just that. It was equipped with features like D-rings, deep pockets, and straps for rank insignia – all serving a purpose in the war's demanding conditions.
The Democratization of the Trench Coat
Initially, the trench coat was a luxury afforded only by officers, who were required to purchase their own uniforms. Tailors like Burberry and Aquascutum catered to these needs, blending the practicalities of military life with the elegance expected of the British officer class. However, as the war progressed and the officer ranks opened to the middle class, the trench coat became a symbol of aspiration and status.
Post-War: A Fashion Icon is Born
After the war, the trench coat transitioned from military necessity to civilian luxury. It retained its association with the upper echelons but became widely available, with retailers offering variations to suit different budgets. The trench coat's design – practical, stylish, and unmistakably British – made it a staple in the wardrobes of both men and women.
The Trench Coat Today
Today, the trench coat remains a beloved piece, celebrated for its versatility and timeless design. It has been reimagined by designers, who have played with its length, color, and details, yet its essence remains unchanged. Whether worn by a Hollywood icon or a style-savvy pedestrian, the trench coat continues to be a garment that speaks of history, functionality, and fashion.
Written by Redouane Ramdani